Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
