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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.